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Author Topic: Finally Starting V2  (Read 1516 times)
Bigcha40
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« on: April 27, 2017, 12:28:05 PM »

Well its finally time to start my next build. Spent a lot of time looking at all the builds on here and getting ideas. Decided to step it up a notch from my first build and go with better components all around. Already have most of the big stuff:





Coleman Extreme 50qt http://a.co/ggln86S
4 Polk DB691's http://a.co/efyZ7HO
Fosgate 400x4 Class D amp http://a.co/2yIt7Jo
Werker 35ah SLA battery
Fusion BT module http://a.co/gZqmW59
8ga Wiring kit,  Gotta buy some quality short RCA cables http://a.co/hKW4uX4
Battery tender 750mah Charger http://a.co/ctMRcN4

As far as accessory type gadgets I have:
A USB port/volt meter similar to this http://a.co/hVzFuBl
6 Circuit Fuse Block
6 Position Terminal Block
LED rocker switches
Gonna buy some LED light strips and maybe the Sound Controller.
2 - 80mm Case Fans, Think they are a little too big and still undecided If I'll use them or not
Debating if I should get a temp gauge again, but then why wouldn't I?!

So having said all that I have a couple questions.

Do you think this cooler will have enough airspace for all 4 of these speakers? Would using the fans be beneficial since it would give it a "port?" Or should I just scrap using this cooler and use the Igloo Cube?

For those using a Bluetooth Module, where are you mounting it and what kind of range are you getting? On my first build I had a head unit mounted on the lid inside the cooler and would could only get about 5ft from it before it started cutting out.

Whats the best way to connect the speaker wire to the speaker? Does anybody solder directly to the post making it "permanent" or just crimp a female end on the wire and connect it that way? Also had some issues with the wires working loose where it was crimped.

What gauge/brand speaker wire would you recommend running in this? Is 16ga sufficient or should I use 12ga?

Also just out of curiosity How much would say cheap crap wire from say Walmart really affect the overall sound in cooler radios?

Well I think that's enough rambling for now and I'll see if I can remember to take pics during the build process. Can't wait to get this thing finished and thanks everyone for the ideas and knowledge!
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JDW1479
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« Reply #1 on: April 27, 2017, 01:31:53 PM »

Below are my suggestions in red.

So having said all that I have a couple questions.

Do you think this cooler will have enough airspace for all 4 of these speakers? Would using the fans be beneficial since it would give it a "port?" Or should I just scrap using this cooler and use the Igloo Cube?
Not sure what the factory required airspace is for each of your 6x9s, but I would assume the cooler does not have enough "factory required" airspace.  Now with that being said, will you notice it, probably not.  Have other cooler builds using the same equipment as you been successful.....yes.  As for fan, I wouldn't use it.  A lot of coolers don't not have fans and run perfectly fine during an all day float.

For those using a Bluetooth Module, where are you mounting it and what kind of range are you getting? On my first build I had a head unit mounted on the lid inside the cooler and would could only get about 5ft from it before it started cutting out.
I use the same Bluetooth module, I get about 30-35 feet, typical.  I really don't think it matters how you mount it, just as long as you have access to it if you ever need to get to it.

Whats the best way to connect the speaker wire to the speaker? Does anybody solder directly to the post making it "permanent" or just crimp a female end on the wire and connect it that way? Also had some issues with the wires working loose where it was crimped.
I have soldered and crimped, never had an issue with both, but obviously crimping connectors makes it easier to remove the speakers if you need to.  I would recommend crimp.

What gauge/brand speaker wire would you recommend running in this? Is 16ga sufficient or should I use 12ga?
I just used typical speaker wire from home depot, the bigger the gauge the better.  Go 12 if you can.

Also just out of curiosity How much would say cheap crap wire from say Walmart really affect the overall sound in cooler radios?

Most likely not, just use good/decent speaker wire, the difference in sound quality using super duper nitrous injected 100% gold speaker wire will probably be non noticeable for a cooler radio floating in the river.
« Last Edit: April 27, 2017, 01:36:20 PM by JDW1479 » Logged
Bigcha40
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« Reply #2 on: April 27, 2017, 05:32:36 PM »

Thanks for the response! All I really have to go on is my previous builds which none of them have had a class D amp. I'm assuming that it doesn't get anywhere near as hot as the class AB that was in my last build. It got hot enough that it shut off a few times last summer, but I was pushing it pretty hard. I'm just trying that whole measure twice cut once thing this time.
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BDA2
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« Reply #3 on: May 04, 2017, 10:07:46 AM »

Fusion BT i got about 30ft with line of sight.  I switched to a dongle with BT 4.0 recently and love the extra distance.  I use the http://exileaudio.com/store/install-accessories/exmc1.html and love the distance and flush face mounting on the outside (plus it's waterproof).

I would suggest using OFC wire. You can go with 10-16 gauge depending on your power requirements (400W amp could go with 10-12 gauge in a short cooler run).  I like monoprice.com for quality mtl at cheap price: https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=2747

50qt should be fine.  Most I've seen on here go 60qt or swap lid of 60qt to make it a 70qt. 

You can solder if you have the time and mtl, however clips work as well.  Your preference, both will sound good. 

In the end, the little things make a difference.  Budget is always a factor but I like to spend a little more so things last and sound better.  (e.g. OFC wire, shielded RCA/Aux cables, tuning my LD or Amp with DMM, thick gauge OFC power wire, etc.)
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sdavis76
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« Reply #4 on: May 05, 2017, 03:38:38 AM »

bet this thing is gonna jam
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Garocai
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« Reply #5 on: July 19, 2018, 12:37:14 AM »

I would like to join this conversation with you if you allow.
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BVYKA
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« Reply #6 on: August 08, 2018, 08:56:46 PM »

Thanks for the response! All I really have to go on is my previous builds which none of them have had a class D amp. I'm assuming that it doesn't get anywhere near as hot as the class AB that was in my last build. It got hot enough that it shut off a few times last summer, but I was pushing it pretty hard. I'm just trying that whole measure twice cut once thing this time.

i would go with this dongle and mount it right between the two front 6X9Z!!!

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sl33k916
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« Reply #7 on: August 09, 2018, 10:12:14 AM »

Thanks for the response! All I really have to go on is my previous builds which none of them have had a class D amp. I'm assuming that it doesn't get anywhere near as hot as the class AB that was in my last build. It got hot enough that it shut off a few times last summer, but I was pushing it pretty hard. I'm just trying that whole measure twice cut once thing this time.

i would go with this dongle and mount it right between the two front 6X9Z!!!



Is that sealant I see around your speakers? What did you use?
Does it helps with vibrations?
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BVYKA
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« Reply #8 on: August 09, 2018, 04:46:11 PM »

All I used was plenty of clear silicone. I put it on the bottom part of the metal installed and tightened to speaker then a bead on the outside of the grill. Does nothing really for vibration.
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Unitedaut
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« Reply #9 on: November 29, 2018, 12:42:49 AM »

One thing we can truly make the content we see here, then you need to look elsewhere.
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